23 feb

So glad we drove into Clermont-Ferrand. First planned to leave the Notre Dame du port for what it is, thinking what a drag it is to get Merlin into a large city, but then started to doubt reading about the qualities of the church itself. It adheres to the strictest laws of pure Limagne Romanesque art, our brochure we picked up at Orcival said. So we made the detour.
Got a good view on the Puy the Dome, which seemed to be smoking when we passed it. Only clouds, so we didn’t have to worry.
In Clermont-Ferrand itself we found a perfect parking space in a walking distance from our church. There was a mass going on, so not the best time for sightseeing. We walked over to the cathedral, a few blocks away. A delightful church in a depressing building. At 12 o’clock we were kicked out of the church. There was no service or something, but the guardian had to have lunch or d=something. Julie was disappointed because she wanted to have her turn with the camera. Had some good shots though, although missed some of the delights Julie’s eye caught.


Went back to Notre Dame where we caught the last part of the mass. Lots of children, fully packed, quite amazing. Julie thought it was because they had heated the church decently. I figured that the priest had some real charisma.
These Auvergne churches turn out to be a delight. I had read about them a long time ago and had planned to go see them before Christmas. But then Merlin broke down and we had to change plans. So I thought we could go and see them after Christmas, but the Berlingo broke down and we had to change plans again.
But now we are seeing them. After La Notre Dame du Port we also visited the churches in St Saturnin and St. Nectaire. The last one was the best this far. The sculptured capitals are maybe the best ones we have seen on our trip, after Autun of course. And they have the benefit of being built a lot lower, so you can really study them. Some of them are painted still (or again).
The outsides of the churches are fun too. There is a bit of mosaics in every single church. Little stars and around the roofs. Wonderful.
And as if the gifts to the soul were not enough, the region also provided pleasures to the body. No I am not talking about the sensual face of Mary Madeleine when she’s washing Christ’s foot in St Saturnin.
I am talking about the cheese of St. Nectaire. What a wonderful cheese. Something in between Vacherin Mont d’Or and Reblochon. And not spoiled (yet) by mass producing for a world market.
Arrived at the campground. Cleaned my boots, waxed them, cut my toe nails, Julie cut all the hairs out of my ears. Put some St. Jacques balsam on my feet. It is clear, I am ready for my walk. Tomorrow I’ll start. In Le Puy en Velay. Going for the Via Podensis. A little more than 1500 kilometres. That is, without making any mistakes. Which is implausible, I have found out. It seems like an enormous distance. But by breaking it up in daily bits of 30 kilometres (20 miles) it should be bearable. Still feel a little bit iffy about it.