Another 32 kilometres done, from Saugues to St.Alban-sur-Limagnole, making a total of 75 kilometres. On the little map I carry today it looked a lot easier than yesterday, reason why I took a late start, first reading a chapter in my Japan book, Bending Adversity.
There was still a climb ahead of me, I realized, going from 950 metres in Saugues, to 1292 at La Sauvage, about half way. But it was going to be a gradual climb, my map promised me. And it was. Except for the fact that above about 1200 metres there was a thick pack of snow. At some spots I disappeared about knee deep, which for a normal person meant their whole leg would have disappeared.
It makes uncomfortable walking, disappearing every step. Even on the spots where the snow was boot deep, the snow seems to work a little like a magnet, not wanting to release you.
Just yesterday I had read some blogs from people writing about this walk. They complained bitterly about the snowy conditions, even though they had walked in late april. I was counting myself lucky with the mild winter also this part of France must have had. But then the snow was not only in ditches anymore. There was snow on far away pine trees. And suddenly also on the ground. And without any warning, the snow was heel deep, at moments, like I said, becoming knee deep. This went on for a couple of kilometres. Just when I reached the highest point of today’s journey – to be eclipsed for the French Camino by just a few meters on the day after tomorrow’s trip – it started snowing. We had seen some snow before this journey. A little in the Pyrennees, eternal snow. A little around Cahors. a little when we left Nimes, but this was the real thing. The white landscape got a little bit whiter yet, very satisfying.
Just as the heel deep snow had appeared, it disappeared. I figured this must happen at about 1207 metres altitude, don’t ask me why. I walked down to St. Alban where Julie and a warm Merlin were waiting. Julie had figured out how I could get my Santiago stamps. Just go to the tourist information. So now I have my first stamp on stamp location five, missing the ones from Le Puy, St Christophe, Saugues and Le Sauvage. The last one is not a village but an old monastery it seemed, which has turned itself, according to the signs along the walking path, as a very welcoming place for Pelerins. There would be nice food, internet, warm drinks, even a bed if I would want that in the middle of the day. Reality was that it was closed, just when I had had my hopes up for a nice omelette to charge me up for the second part of the trip. None of that. Instead I ate some dry bread and a banana in a place that was shielded from wind and snow. I am realizing this is not a very popular time of the year for journey’s to Santiago. And with the snow experience from today I can see why.
My biggest disappointment was a sign that said: Santiago 1475 kilometres, just before I reached St. Alban. According to my own bookkeeping we should be closer. I figure it is still 1447 kilometres, but I might have to plan an extra day of walking somewhere to balance the different books.
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