Walked another 46 kilometres, from Villareal Montes de Oca to Villalbilla de Burgos. Too much really, because the day started with a serious climb through a little snow, but it was a way to get into and out of Burgos as fast as possible. Big cities are not the joy of walkers. They drag on and on and on, before you see something remarkable, like the cathedral of Burgos is. Today’s walk made a total of 950 kilometres.
Last night we had some internet time, a few drinks and a peregrino dinner at the Monasterio San Anton. It’s an old pilgrims hostel, where 18.000 people a year would sleep in the 16th century. It had gotten into disarray, but because of private initiative it is being redeveloped. We had a wonderful dinner, three courses (garlic soup for me and salad for Julie; rabbit stew for me and pork tenderloin for Julie; and two fruit cocktails) together with bread, coffee and a bottle of wine for €12 a person. Quite amazing. Not only that. Julie managed for the owner and one of the two sons that run the hotel to fall in love with her. It is unbelievable good value for money. The food was great, although the wine was the worst I tasted in years without it being sour or having cork.
I was warned about the walk into Burgos. It is dreadfull and lasts forever. There was a detour that skipped most of the industrial estates, but the alternative was hardly interesting. Or one should like walking past an airport for close to an hour, where no airplane landed or took of.
The worst thing though was that I had to go on after finally having reached Burgos cathedral. Most of the day I walked again with Tejo, whose real name is Lito (if I got it right now) and Jose. Together with Francisce (?) from Slovakia and a guy from Hungary. But the Camino is becoming a path where I start to know lots of people. Had a nice talk with Willem from Rotterdam, some laughs with Canadeia Angelica from New York, Saw Elodie again, who’s not ahead of me somehow. Met German Durk and English Simon with whom we chatted with at dinner last night. And hear more stories of people who are at deciding points in their lives. Quite special.
The last hour of walking was real straining myself again. On some of the climbs in the past few days I had tested my ability to go faster than anyone around, but for the rest it had been relaxing walking. Carrying no luggage makes all the difference, although I carry quite a bit more body weight than most of the people I meet.
My feet were barking though, at the end of the day, to use another Julie expression. It won’t get more extravagant than this, I have promised myself. Stay close to 35 kilometres, that’s the mantra. With 477 kilometres to go, that should mean I could be done in two weeks. Just in time before Mary arrives. Wonderful.
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