The one thing I wanted to see in Madrid was Picasso’s Guernica. From reproductions it was never clear to me why it was special, but I wanted to see the real thing, also because I think I understand Picasso a little better after reading the book his lover Francoise Gillot wrote about him, a book Picasso himself seems to have despised.
It was in the Reina Sofia museum, a museum for 20th century art. The painting was commissioned by the Revolutionary government Spain had in 1936/1937. The army under General Franco opposed the government, causing the brutal Civil War that still scars the country. I downloaded Anthony Beevor’s acclaimed history of the Civil War, but have not had the energy at nights to read any of it.
Anyway, Picasso painted it for some Exposition in Paris in 1937. The painting reflects on the bombing of the Basq town Guernica. An air rad performed by the German Luftwaffe on request of Franco. The world abhorred the bombing, because there were no military targets and mostly women and children died.
The painting is large, but smaller than I thought. It is also not overwhelmingly beautiful like a Rembrandt or Van Gogh can be. But I hung against a wall for a good twenty minutes, just getting more and more absorbed by the picture, and slowly getting overwhelmed by the power of the details and the solemness of its black and white brushstrokes. There was a series of photo’s of the work in progress. It took Picasso a month to paint it and it is one of the best documented paintings in the world, the museum guide said. That was just splendid. The genius of Picasso is really beyond doubt, but becomes even more clear in the way he changed his design while progressing. It was well worth the visit.
The best thing to do in a museum is to focus on as few paintings as possible, I always tell myself. I couldn’t resist though to peek in some (in fact many) of the other exhibition rooms. I can honestly say that I didn’t see anything remarkable in the after 1945 section. I had some great fun though with some of the surrealistic paintings of Dali. What a twisted mind, but what a wonderful painter. And some of the surrealist photographs of the early thirties and definitely the photographs of the Civil War were amazing. But walking from room to room I mostly realize what an inept mind I have for modern art. All those Miro’s, my goodness, who would miss them when if they would disappear?
Visited the Muji store, even better than the Dutch Hema, for the last storage items to get ready for some serious hiking after tomorrow. I read the German guide about the Via de la Plata that I bought in Santiago. Semana santa, which started today – could have bought some Romerolivo (rosemary with olive branches), but didn’t do it – seems to be an extremely busy hiking week in Spain. I am concerned now I won’t be able to find a spot in the albergues on my way. Ah well, We’ll find out after tomorrow.
13 apr
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