3 may

Walked from Ourense to Osteria, 29 kilometres. Was planning to walk another 10 kilometres, but then I saw this monastery in Osteria and started reading about it. I just couldn’t resist staying. Not in the monastery itself, but in the albergue. Met Lucas, a Belgian volunteer who has transformed this place (the albergue) in the past years. With 76 years old he still spends about half a year each year on the Camino. Walking, but also volunteering in albergues where some help is needed.
He asked me if I wanted to go to the vespers service. I did, but couldn’t help being disappointed. The singing was not up to Silos standards and at one point there was a period of silence that lasted 5 minutes. Felt very uncomfortable.
This monastery is gigantic. Probably the largest I’ve seen in my life. They call it the Galician El Escorial, after the Madrid palace monastery built by Philip II, which is probably larger still.
It, osteria, was started as a Benedictine abbey in the 12th century, but then transferred to the Cistercians when they became fashionable. In the 19th century it was left by monks and the buildings were collapsing when a few French monks decided to bring some new life to the abbey. One of the monks liked building and he was responsible for the repairs. Although in some places they have used concrete instead of wood, he has done a wonderful job.
The most special sculpture they have is a Mary breastfeeding baby Jesus ( who has a spectacular amount of curls, by the way). It is the oldest (12th century) sculpture of mary holding Jesus this way. It might have been the inspiration for Eric Gill, although Mary’s breast is not as exposed as Gill’s Mary’s are.
It is also the monastery where Graham Greene spent part of his old age. He was friends with the librarian monk who’s still alive and 97 now. He’s one of the eight monks left in this huge building.
It was good to walk again. The weather is splendid. Haven’t seen a cloud all day long. And this is Galicia, where it rains two days out of three. Walked through lovely hills, going up and down through beautiful spring green oak forests. I am amazed about the changes in nature in one week. Only oneandahalf week ago I had not seen any branches on grapevines. Now some of them are already one yard long. But there are still bluebells and some of the fruit trees are still blossoming. Funny thing, nature.
Two more days walking. But walking in Galicia is the best there is. Lucas showed me which parts are going to be extremely beautiful, just beautiful, too much road and just plain dull. Only the arrival in Santiago is dull, he said, so Julie has to liven it up with her presence again. Most of the rest is extremely beautiful. So something to look forward too.